It is an uncharacteristically mellow August afternoon in Scotland’s rural Livet Valley as Alan Winchester plays escort to a group of visiting spirits writers. As Master Distiller for The Glenlivet, one of the world’s-largest and best-loved single-malt Scotches, Winchester’s tour of his domain reveals an intriguing combination of traditional and modern practices.
Treasured source
The first stop, at the foot of the pristine, heather-coated slopes of Cairn Liath, is a rather plain but historic springhouse that encases Josie’s Well, a treasured source of The Glenlivet’s water and one reason that founder George Smith made his first legal whisky here in 1824. This is followed by a contrasting walk through a vast, well-lit, computer-controlled room full of gleaming copper stills, part of a £10 million expansion completed in 2010. Finally, we repair to a gravel-floor cellar where a few rough-edged barrels of rare whisky have been slumbering for decades now.
Winchester, a man with a rare combination of humour and gravitas, is very much at ease as he previews the October launch of the first in a series of 50-year old single malts which Pernod Ricard’s Chivas Brothers, The Glenlivet’s owner, has decided to name after him — The Winchester Collection.
Raise a toast
Each visitor is poured a barrel sample from the highly anticipated first release, the Vintage 1964, and a marvellous wave of aromas wafts across the low room. The liquid has turned a vibrant, pale golden colour after a half-century in a Bourbon-seasoned cask, and a single drop of spring water further releases the smells and flavours of mellow fruits, such as pears and pineapple, savoury cracked grain, a toffee-infused middle and a playful but firm bite in spite of its understandably low, cask-strength alcohol — 42.3%. On a nearby stand is displayed an elegantly crafted decanter, one of an even 100 bottles that will shortly go on sale worldwide at about £18,000 each.
As squat, faceted crystal whisky glasses are clinked, photos taken and congratulations given, we toast the launch of the first in a line of rare and exquisite whiskies. There are two men behind the collection. First is Bill Smith-Grant, the last descendant of founder George Smith and the man who a half-century ago laid down the 1964 cask and then another cask in 1966, which will follow it in the collection.
Second is Winchester, who grew up among the grain farms of Speyside and earned his way up from day worker to mashman, brewer and stillman in a number of area whisky firms before being named top man at The Glenlivet five years ago.
Winchester contemplates
At the tasting and later, Winchester reflected on the philosophy behind the collection:
On heritage: “We are always looking at ways to innovate and pay homage to our founder George Smith, ensuring that new products in The Glenlivet range achieve the high standard which he set from the very beginning. We know that his descendent, Bill Smith-Grant, had laid down this whisky in the knowledge that it was something really special, and so it was our duty to care for it and monitor it until the whisky had reached the peak of maturation. This is how and why I’ve curated The Winchester Collection.”
On patience: “The only challenge was in keeping [the 1964 barrel] for 50 years. There will always be people who want a 20- or 30-year old vintage. Our challenge was to hold off and to realise that the wait would be worth it. And it is.”
On planning: “While we are involved in the industry and often wish that we had a crystal ball that we could pass to each other, the reality is that it really is a case of managing our stock carefully and closely, making sure that we have enough spirit laid down to meet future customer demand.”
On constancy: Since 1964, “the operation has expanded and while the stills used to be heated by coal, they are now heated by clean natural gas. But the process of creating The Glenlivet has remained the same, which is what makes it so very special.”
On the future: “We have whisky laid down that is equally as special, and so there was no question that this should become a collection for the most ardent of whisky drinkers. We haven’t confirmed how many vintages will form the complete collection; however, I can tell you that each vintage will be 50 years of age. The next vintage to be released is Vintage 1966, arriving in 2016. We have a large, high-quality inventory of The Glenlivet, and the distillery has been in constant production throughout.”
A word for collectors: “My advice is to buy two – drink and enjoy one and keep one for investment.”
Well-crafted
The Vintage 1964 of The Winchester Collection was bottled on June 17 in decanters designed by Scottish glass artists Nichola Burns and Brodie Nairn. Each is topped with a jewel-like stopper of whisky-coloured Cairngorm stone, the work of silversmith Richard Fox. Completing the package is a wooden presentation cabinet crafted by furniture maker John Galvin.
