If all London districts, there is no more charming name than Mayfair. It makes one think of pretty shepherdesses, giggling and blushing as swains serenade them with garlands of spring flowers. But that would have been some time ago, even before the last nightingale sang in Berkeley Square. These days, the serenading would be courtesy of powerful sports cars, revving through the traffic to cock a snook at the cops.
Yet there are survivals from a gentler era. Behind Berkeley Square in Bruton Place, you will find the Guinea Grill, which sounds cheerful and lives up to its name. It is a proper Victorian chop house, the sort of establishment that our forebears would have taken for granted: a place that Mr Pickwick and his friends would have enjoyed.
Virtually next door is Bellamy’s, with more gastronomic ambition, but equally traditional and wholly reliable. In recent years, a late middle-aged lady would sometimes arrive, without fuss or fanfare. Other diners might discreetly nudge a companion and say: “That looks awfully like, but surely it can’t be?” Equally discreetly, the person addressed would give a covert glance - absolutely no gawping - before replying: ‘D’you know, I think it is.’ It was. The late Queen would occasionally use Bellamy’s for an informal dinner with old friends.
Gavin Rankin, the proprietor, the kinsman of a baronet, is a delightful fellow as is Luigi, the superb maitre d’hotel, and all the staff dispense good cheer. Like every really fine restaurant, it has the atmosphere of a first-rate club.
The menu changes regularly, but there are staples. Their mousse of smoked eel and the iced lobster souffle are both worth three rosettes, as is Marina’s chocolate cake, as delicious a chocolate dessert as I have ever found.
Bellamy’s also serves really toothsome...fish fingers. That might sound startling. One would normally associate fish fingers with junk food, not with a restaurant of this quality. But these are scrumptious and succulent. I have known friends who used fish fingers to entice children to eat fish, because they do not look fishy. These ones are clearly made with fine fish and taste accordingly.
There is one complaint. On the verge of expiring, the Younger Pitt declared that he would like one of Bellamy’s meat pies. Alas, he was too late. The last wish became a final word. So I think that it is time for the current Bellamy’s to take up the challenge. A generously meaty pie - perhaps with jelly on top if it is a pork pie - is one of the glories of British cuisine and I bet that Gavin’s Bellamy’s would produce a damn fine one.
There are plenty of other delights, and Gavin attempts to discover affordable wines: never easy in today’s market. The other evening, we went off-piste, thanks to the generosity of a friend who wanted to celebrate. An oenophile and a successful fund manager, he never lacks an excuse to celebrate. Nor do his clients. The other old mucker was a distinguished soldier who also believes in discretion. Like many such fellows, he would pass unnoticed in a crowd unless and until action stations were required. We are lucky to have such characters.
That evening, however, the nearest approach to the sound of ordnance was the popping of corks. We began with a Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill ‘04, everything a champagne should be and worthy of its great name. Then came a fascinating Alsace Riesling, Chateau St. Hure ‘08 from Trimbach. it had all the Riesling characteristics: petrol, lemon and herbs on the nose, delighting the palate with subtle changes in every sniff and sip.
There followed an Angelus 2000. I suspect that among overwhelmingly Merlot bottles, this one would probably give precedence to Petrus, but to nothing else. It is a great claret, fully ready but in the prime of long lasting maturity.
I wondered what would possibly follow that, but the host was up to the challenge, with a 2001 Yquem. I have occasionally heard some jaded epicure wonder whether Yquem was worth its price, and its reputation. I had never agreed with the doubters, even before tasting the 2001.
The food was worthy of the wine. This was clearly a special occasion, but Gavin and his team seemed to be revelling in it as much as we were. They would always be ready to organise a banquet, but their daily fare is of banquet quality. This is a proper place for proper people. If you are feeling like a treat, the wish will be father to the feast.
Bellamy’s, 18 Bruton Place, London W1J 6LY bellamysrestaurant.co.uk